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Tangzhong and yudane

Tangzhong is a cooked paste: a small part of the recipe's flour whisked with about five times its weight of water or milk and heated to about 149°F (65°C), the temperature King Arthur gives for the starch to gel, until it thickens. Yudane is flour mixed with an equal weight of boiling water and rested. Either one lets the dough hold more water, so the bread is softer and stays fresh longer.

Tangzhong: a small share of the flour (King Arthur's recipes use 4 to 7%), 1 part flour to 5 parts liquid, cooked to about 149°F. Yudane: 1 part flour to 1 part boiling water, rested a few hours or overnight. Use: in milk bread, sandwich loaves and rolls.

Making a tangzhong

Count the flour and liquid in the paste as part of the recipe's totals; the baker's percentage calculator keeps the hydration right.

  1. Weigh about 5% of the recipe's flour (King Arthur's recipes use 4 to 7%), and five times that weight of water or milk (25 g flour, 125 g milk).
  2. Whisk them together cold in a small pan.
  3. Heat gently, stirring, until it thickens to a paste with whisk trails, about 149°F (65°C).
  4. Cool it before adding it with the other ingredients.

Making a yudane

Pour boiling water over an equal weight of flour, mix to a stiff paste, cover and leave it to cool, or refrigerate overnight. It is quicker to make than a tangzhong and is used the same way. A thermometer helps with the tangzhong's temperature.

Why it works

Heating flour with water gelatinises its starch, which can then hold more water than raw flour. That extra water stays in the crumb, giving the soft, feathery texture of Japanese milk bread and slowing staling. The dough feels stickier at first; resist adding flour.

Questions bakers ask

What is the tangzhong ratio?

Usually 1 part flour to 5 parts water or milk by weight, King Arthur's typical ratio, using a small share of the recipe's flour (4 to 7% in its recipes).

Can I use tangzhong in sourdough?

Yes. It is common in soft sourdough sandwich loaves; count its flour and water in the formula.

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